Before I start with the do’s let discuss some eye makeup DON’T s:
1) Purple eye shadow , this is pretty much the skinny jeans of make up, everyone tries to wear it but only about 1% of the population can actually pull it off. Same goes from colors like bright blue or neon green, hot pink, and bright yellow. Basically the point of wearing makeup is to flatter your face and bring out your natural features, not to look like a ##### or Ronald McDonald, and although these colors look fab on the runways and in magazines they do not translate well into real life.
2) Glitter, not the movie starring Mariah Carey’s crazy ass (cuz that movie is AMAZING), but the stuff some girls feel the need to put on their face. If you are not a current employee of the #5 Orange (or any other strip clubs or ######## parlors) then it is highly inappropriate for you to put this #### anywhere near your face.
3) White eyeliner and too much smudge black eyeliner on the bottom lid, and liner that is above the lash line, all equally unacceptable … refer to the section on eyeliner to find out why you should not do this ….
4) Spider lashes … I’ll admit, sometimes I get too mascara happy, but spider lashes just look scary, like spiders… so restrain yourself from applying 15 coats of mascara, 2-3 will do the job, I promise.
So with this behind us …
The purpose of eye makeup is to flatter your eye shape and color and making the correct color selections and application techniques can make a world of difference…
First lets pick some colors:
I believe that for pretty much every good eye makeup look it is important to use 3 colors, to really create depth and sex appeal in the eye.
First, a HIGHLIGHTER, this will be your lightest color of the palette. This color is used to highlight the brow bone (raise your brows and make them look more archy and sexy) and the inner corners of your eyes (to make them pop), I find that using luminescent or shimmery highlighters adds an extra bit of hotness to any look.
Second, a BASE, this should be a light to medium tone color (darker than your highlighter, but not too dark). If your are only gonna splurge on one eye shadow do it on this one because this is the one that takes up the most eye surface area. You can go with sparkly or matt, it really depends on the look you are going for, but if your highlighter is really sparkly using a matt base will look a bit odd, so try to keep’em in the same family. You are gonna apply it on a large portion of your upper lid, and lining your lower lid with it too, so choose wisely and the world will be your oyster for the chucking.
Last, the CREASE, this should be your darkest shadow, and is the one that is gonna create all the depth and contour in your eyes. Once again, it is important to keep the Highlighter, Base and Crease colors in more or less the same family of tone and texture (ie. It is not advisable to use a luminescent highlighter, matt base, and metallic crease because it will just look kinda odd). You will use this color with your crease brush, and the most important thing here is to BLEND BLEND BLEND, this is what will give your eye makeup that polished and professional look.
Now lets choose some COLOR:
BLUE/GRAY EYES:
Highlighter: I LOVE the MAC Vanilla pigment for this … it is a goldy-white, luminescent color that is great for pretty much any skin tone with blue eyes. Basically, anything translucent, warm eggshell whitish (but not actually white) and shimmery will do.
Base: I love using warm pinky or peachy golds, or very light brick toned browns.
Crease: Pretty much any warm brick brown, rich coppers, or chocolate shade will be great. Use it dry as a shadow and wet as a liner ….
GREEN OR HAZEL EYES (if you want to bring out the green or gold in your hazel eyes):
Highlighter: Same as for blue eyes, something light but warm toned!!!
Base: Light caramel or warm creamy pink or salmon shade, the key is not to go too dark on the base color so your eyes don’t look smaller.
Crease: Taupe, warm plum, rich or antique gold and warm toned browns will all do the job. Once again, use them wet or dry, or go with a dark brown liquid liner.
BROWN OR HAZEL EYES(if you want to bring the brown in your hazel eyes):
Highlighter: MAC Pink Opal pigment is the love of my life when I do makeup on girls with sexy dark brown eyes… the fun thing about having dark drown eyes is you can use cooler more pink or blue toned highlighter colors (now hold your horses sister, I didn’t say pink and blue, I said pink and blue TONED, which means they are mostly white or beige with just the slightest hint of light reflecting pigments in those colors!!!!)
Base: Cooler shades of light grays and light pinks, or cool toned light browns.
Crease: Cool toned gray-browns, charcoals, cool toned plums and burgundy, gray-blue, basically any color that makes you feel kinda depressed when you think about it in an emotional sense and start to analyze it, but worry not, once you look in the mirror all those sad feeling will be replaced by sexy ones …
Some final color thoughts … most of the colors I chose here are pretty …ummm,… boring, some might think, but on the whole you want to wear eye makeup to look beautiful not tacky, and yes brown is not so exciting at first glance, but it is really the most flattering color for everyone… there is nothing wrong with whipping out the colors every once in a while for a night out on the town, but for daytime or glam time the earth tones are the hotness, and if you wanna play them up do it by getting these colors in a variety of textures like luminescent, pearlescent, shimmery, metallic, or matt and try paying around with those.
Now lets get on to EYE SHAPE:
Eyes come in many shapes and sizes, so to thin there is one universal eye shadow technique is just crazy!!!!
SMALL EYES – your goal is to make them look bigger…how ? Start by Apply a light base color all over the top lid and lining the bottom (all the way to the inner corner of the eye) with it too, using your flat brush. Then, with a darker shade and your crease brush shade the crease of the upper lid, dragging the color to the outer corner to lengthen the eye area, and with a flat brush concentrate a bit of this color at the outer corner of your bottom lids. Using a pencil liner or angle brush, apply liner starting at the most inner part of the upper lid, and increasing the thickness of the line as you move outward. Intensify the color at the outer edge of the eye (if you are using a creamy pencil liner, smudge it out a bit in the corner with a q-tip). To finish, use a highlighter along the brow bone, and around the tear ducks to make your eyes pop.
DEEP SET EYES – these are the most challenging, but have no fear … start out by using your base color over entire lid (for this type of eye I suggest going with a bit lighter base than usual), and apply a highlighter along the brow bone line and the inner corner of the bottom lid. Use a darker toned shadow, and begin at the socket line and blend color out above the with your crease brush to give the illusion of a higher brow and larger upper lid. Apply only a thin line or eyeliner for definition along top lid and 2/3'rds along lower lid blending towards the outer edge (thin thin thin), and DO NOT drag shadow or liner out past the outer corner of the eye. On the whole you want to keep this light to make the eye look bigger cuz darker shadow do tend to make deep set eyes look more deep set.
ASIAN EYE SHAPE - apply a light base all over eye area and blend towards nose. Using a crease brush, apply darkest color from crease to lid, fading the color half way up wards and half way across (with intensity decreasing toward the inner part of the eye). Highlight along brow bone and down parallel to nose from brow to inner corner of eye. Apply eyeliner close to lashes to give appearance of thickened lash line. Line the lower lid with the shadow you used in the crease and smudge to soften the line.
MOST OTHER EYE SHAPES- follow same principle of highlighting brow and inner corners of eyes, a base all over, and get adventurous with the crease…. Try dragging the shadow out to make your eyes look more almond shaped OR make your eyes look more round by concentrating the color at your outer most part of your upper and lower lids and rounding the crease or dragging the crease shadow upwards in a circular manner … take a chance or a risk, try doing something you haven’t done before (not just in makeup but in life)... Practice or your girlfriends (this is how I became a world renowned makeup artist), to be able to blend eye shadow well you really need to work on your stroke and practicing on others will really help you improve, really!!! Utilize tools around you, like q-tip, which are great for smudging liner or applying a bit of highlighter under the brow bone or a thin paintbrush as a liquid liner brush … and stay gold, pony boy, stay gold …
Happy exam learning to you and yours
Xoxo Marina