Tuesday, December 2, 2008

Smokie Eyes

Smoky EYES

First of all some smoky eye proper conduct: I feel like these days the line between sexy and whory is becoming thinner and less defined, but it is still there and I personally suggest that, at least when I comes to makeup, you stay on the sexy side of things (feel free to cross to the whory side for any other aspects of life you see necessary). So here are some basic guidelines for keeping on the right side of the of the smoky eye green line:
1) Keep the rest of your face neutral, smoky eyes are the main feature of your makeup look so don’t try to balance things out by slathering on bright lipstick or going buck wild with bronzer or blush … its about the eyes, so keep it ALL ABOUT THE EYES!!!!
2) Blend, blend, blend ‘til you your wrist starts to bleed. Yes getting blood all over your bathroom counter is rather annoying BUT what separates a sexy sophisticated smoky eye from ones found on your local 15 year old pole-dancer in training is quality blending!!! The whole point of the look is to see a SMOOTH progression of dark to light shadow from the bottom to the top of the lid, NOT to be able to distinguish between where the different colors where applied. So, grab your beloved crease brush and q-tip and go to town !!!
3) Its not Halloween (unless you are reading this on October 31 and it is Halloween, in which case just ignore this suggestion) and you are not dressing up like a sexy raccoon or a battered wife, so there is no need to look like one!!! DO NOT go for colors that are too dark (like really deep navy blue or black), while these look mega hot on the Gucci runway models, they just look ridiculous in real life and make you look like you got the 1-2 punch combo in both eyes. To make your smoky eyes look ultra modern and sexy go for silvery-grays, rich chocolaty browns, plums, olive greens, and sparkly midnight blues. Yes smoky eyes are intended to be dark, but black just over does it and takes you into whoryville !!!
4) Don’t drag your eye shadow too far out, this will just make your face look wider and your eyes look smaller (unless this is the look you are going for).




Choosing Colors:

The basic rule of thumb for smoky eyes is you want to have 3 eyeshadow colors and 1 pencil liner.

First you want to choose your DARKEST color:

Blue eyes: I suggest going with a dark rich brown, a smoky silver/gray (if you have more cool toned gray-blue eyes this will make them look more blue) or a warm toned olive green.


Brown/ Hazel eyes: I suggest silver-gray, cool plum or cool gray-brown tones, sparkly midnight blue (the color for the season!!!!) wish silver.

The Second color you choose should be the SAME base color BUT at least 2 shades LIGHTER!!! (as a side note: if you choose a color light a midnight blue that has a lot of silver pigment in it as your darkest color , you can choose just a plain silver as your medium shade to play up the sparkle in the blue, same goes for a goldy green or brown, you can choose your medium shade to be a strong gold to play up the gold hues in you dark color)

The third color you choose is the lightest shade, and is just going to be used to highlight your brow bone, the most important thing here is to choose a color which is NOT too light, so pretty much the same color as your skin tone or maybe a shade lighter will do great (and remember if you choose cool toned shadows, choose a cool toner highlighter color, if you choose old tones choose a gold toner highlighter, same goes for silver …etc.)

As for the EYELINER … this is really the key player in your look, but is quite simple to select…. Basically if you go with warm toners go with a rich dark brown , if you go with cool tones go with a dark smoky gray or black (BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE BLACK OR YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF ON THE LONELY STREETS OF WHORYVILLE IN NO-TIME). The most important thing for great smoky eyes is using eyeliner that is soft and easy to smudge and blend, so invest in a good eyeliner cuz the cheaper ones do tend to be harder to work with (my fave are the MAC liners cuz they smudge like butter!!!!).

The Smoky Eye Method:

Step 1: apply concealer all over and around the eye to give you an even toned and smooth pallet to work with.

Step 2: Take your liner and line your top and bottom lids, thickening the line as you move to the outer corner of your eye. The most important thing here is to avoid dragging you liner out too far past the outer corner of the eye and keeping the liner right at the lash line!!! For some extra sex appeal (and if you have big eye ONLY) line the inside of your lids too…

Step 3: apply your darkest color to your bottom lid going overtop and blending with your eyeliner (this can be easily don’t with a q-tip, no need for any fancy brushes), do the same on the bottom lid but don’t go too buck wild on making your bottom lids look too heavy, the goal is to just smudge out the bottom liner with the shadow. Now, with a crease brush apply just a slight bit of your darkest color into the crease not dragging it too far up or out!!!

Step 4: with your crease brush apply your medium shade all over the crease dragging it up and A BIT out (not too much!!!), the key here is to blend the medium shade in with the darkest shade and crease contour!!

Step 5: brush your highlighter under your brow and blend it in with your medium shade, for some extra sparkle apply a bit of the highlighter color on the inner corner of the eyes too …

Step 6: curl your lashes and apply at least 2 coats of BLACK mascara to add some major baby-mama-drama to yuor eyes, define your brows, apply some bronzer all over, finish with some sexy nude gloss and go out there turn heads and break some young boys hearts.

Conclusions: creating a smoky eye is all about layering lighter shadows over darker ones and blending them out to create a smooth progression from darkest around the eye to lightest at the brow bone. This is mostly an evening look, but can be transformed to day by choosing lighter and more matt colors (the only thing is that matt colors are generally harder to blend perfectly so be ware!!!).

Hope you enjoy …
Xoxox marina

No comments: